The Morgans Restaurant Exudes Waltonian Charm

Although The Morgans Restaurant "looks incongruous, as if accidentally dropped onto a sparse urban side street," Lee Klein channels John Boy Walton and takes comfort in "American main course favorites such as spaghetti and meatballs, roast chicken, and meatloaf." The orecchiette with broccoli rabe and "savory homemade sausage in garlic-scented broth," was a "solid rendition of this classic Italian dish." Insert Grandpa Walton analogy here. But "while weekday lunches and dinners were paced in a leisurely and competent fashion, a Saturday-evening visit turned into a fiasco." A packed house caused delayed service and, "worse, the kitchen crew, perhaps rushing to serve patrons who remained, put out dishes that were undercooked, overcooked, missing things, and who knows what else." As for his dining experience that night, in one word, "Ouch." Lunch and brunch fared much better, however, and "Saturday night massacre notwithstanding," Klein says "There's a lot to like about Morgans . . . Maybe it's the pleasure of sitting on that idyllic porch in the lemonade-colored sunshine, which is downright Waltons-esque."[MNT]