"Clean" Indian Cuisine at Bombay Darbar

Lee Klein clues us in to the presence of a very good Indian restaurant in the space formerly known as Anokha in Coconut Grove. Bombay Darbar, he says, is a "delightful breath of fresh air in stale Coconut Grove." Papadum wafers were "crisp," and the "soft, fluffy, onion-flecked kulcha nan" was the "best of the lot." Vegetable samosas had "plenty of cilantro," while a "dense mango chutney" served along with Tamarind dip "is less sweet and more complex than those generally found in restaurants." Tandoori chicken wings as entree was a hit with the chicken "moist and blushed the customary orange/red hue from marinating in turmeric-tinged yogurt further flavored with ginger, garlic and spices." The chicken makhani? "Ghee whiz, it's good," Klein exclaims, as was seemingly every dish he tried with the excpetion of, perhaps, a fish version of vindaloo, whose "subtle basa taste never made it to the surface, drowned by assertive seasonings." Service is "friendly" and "efficient," with a "comforting mom and pop spirit." The only real complaint Klein had was the incensce, "whose intensity assaults the olfactory senses in a manner not conducive to appreciating food." [MNT]