clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

Filed under:

Eden's Odd, The Restaurant at The Setai's Spendy

Victoria Pesce Elliott checked out Eden and wonders: "Do we really need more Wagyu sliders, fried calamari, fried dumplings and tuna tartare?" She also says that "Somewhere between tourist trap and local hideaway, this odd eatery seems to be trying to figure out what it wants to be when it grows up. The lack of local elements (or locals) makes me think it may not be around long enough for us to find out." Yikes. Was there anything she liked? "a silken Alaskan cod," a "juicy New York strip steak with picture-perfect hatch marks," "an heirloom tomato salad celebrating local bounty," and "heartwarming young and eager wait staff," among other things. On the not so much list, "Macadmia-encrusted salmon with a gamey, off flavor," salad "too heavily dressed with a sour sherry vinaigrette," "oddly hearty ravioli," and a few more things. Bottom line? 2 stars. []

Lee Klein's visit to the simply named The Restaurant at The Setai was far from simple--or inexpensive. Quoting Momofuku's David Chang talking about going to fancy restaurants and feeling ripped off, Klein says "Since debuting in 2001, this has always been one of the city's most expensive establishments. It also has been one of the best, at least during the reign of chef Jonathan Wright." As for now? "Those unconcerned with cash will be pleased to hear that [new chef David] Werly has maintained the Setai's lofty caliber of cuisine. Those concerned with cash probably shouldn't be dining here to begin with." What was good? Pork buns "were just like traditional ones found in NYC's Chinatown, except smaller and with a more pristine mix of pork inside;" "Cantonese-style beef hor fun was delicious," "Chicken tikka proved a notch or three above what you'll find at local Indian joints."

Klein was a little thrown off by portion size, saying "Dishes here are billed as family-style, generally meaning "to be shared" — which makes the serving of two little fritters for three people seem puzzling and parsimonious." Klein also notes that while "A high bar is set for high-end restaurant, "service and attention to detail come up short." Bottom line: "You can have a great meal at the Restaurant at the Setai. Finding great value is another matter." [MNT]