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Lee Klein heads downtown to Sparky's Roadside Barbecue, which "boasts a clean, down-home roadside coffehouse ambiance." As for the food, "experimentation paid off." The brisket sandwich is "legendary," while the pulled pork sandwich is "equally fetching." Pork ribs were "thick, meaty," and "none of the items really requires barbecue sauce," but "it would be a shame not to try at least a couple of the five or so daily homemade varieties." [MNT]