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2.5 Stars For Molina's Ranch

Victoria Pesce Elliott says she's "been going to Hialeah since before I can remember," and goes again to check out Molina's Ranch Restaurant, which is "fancier than Adolfo Molina's 1982 original" but "just as friendly." And though it "looks as generic as a Bennigan's," it also "has the warmth of a family-run restaurant."

Faves include "kid friendly baby palomilla steak," "moist, meaty and perfectly blended moros y cristianos," whole fried snapper "big as a book," and "sweet-as-sugar-cane tres leches." What didn't work? "Run of the mill sweet, greasy plantains," "pasty ham croqeutas," "blah shrimp," and "uninspired avocado salad." Bottom line? 2.5 stars.

· Molina's Ranch Restaurant []