Reviews for MC Kitchen, Doma Polo, and Florida Cookery

The "warm, generous" Dena Marino gets a pretty solid rating of three and a half stars by Victoria Pesce Elliot of her new Italian restaurant in the Design District, MC Kitchen. Elliot commends the "welcoming" space and the "fantastic" wine list of some 450 bottles. Various "comforting dishes" and "generously main courses" make her list of what worked. The Bucatini alla carbonara was "perfectly sauced" with a "perfectly coddled egg." She calls the halibut crudo "stunning", the rosemary fries "irresistible", the grouper fillet "fantastically fresh", the strawberry cobbler "heavenly rustic", and the panna cotta "light as just-fluffed laundry." Overall, Elliot says, "Marino turns out miraculously flavored dishes that inspire and satisfy." [Miami.com]

Emily Codik gives a thorough review of Downtown's Argentine restaurant, Doma Polo Bistro. Codik makes a point that Doma Polo "sets itself apart" from what's come to be a very formulaic type of dining in Miami. Among the "best dishes" on the Argentine menu is the "entraña", a nine ounce grilled skirt steak served with salsa criolla and vegetable puree. The oven-roasted mahi mahi and the ravioli also make tops for Codik, while some plates, she says, "aren't worth the wait in traffic." One is the locro, a "pasty and greasy" stew. She also notes that "poor service contrasts the generous portions and delectable fare." [MNT]

Victoria Pesce Elliot takes to local Floridian Kris Wessel's first hotel venture at the James Royal Palm, Florida Cookery. She gives two and a half stars to the "far from perfect" place that has "a few fantastic dishes and a good story." Among the highlights: a "standout" burger named after SOBEWFF founder Lee Schrager, the Biscayne Boulevard Shrimp, "perfect" fried tomatoes, the empanada trio, and grapefruit ceviche. Among the things that need work: "thin and wiry" frog legs, "overly salted" summer squash threads, a "dry tawny" roast half chicken, and "friendly but green" servers. All in all, Elliot says, "his flavors here are bright and exciting, but sometimes need modulation." [Miami.com]