clock menu more-arrow no yes

Filed under:

Reviews are in for Vagabond Restaurant and 27

Both newcomers wow the critics

Cocktails aren't the only thing the Bar Lab guys are good at as The Miami Herald points out in this week's review of their new restaurant 27, giving it three-and-a-half stars. The Herald's food editor and critic Evan Benn only had glowing things to say about the South Florida inspired spot, noting, "it is easily the most Miami restaurant in greater Miami. And it is one of the very best." He raves about the house-made condiments, the Cuban-style oxtail, Haitian inspired fried pork chunks, and of course, the drinks.

But he does point out that, "those who demand that restaurants have parking lots and take reservations and maintain low decibel levels might want to look elsewhere."

At the Miami New Times, it critiques the Vagabond Restaurant inside the recently renovated Vagabond Hotel for its weekly review. While critic Zachary Fagenson touches on the restaurant's mod interior and drinks, he spends most of it giving background and insight into its eclectic menu by 25-year-old chef Alex Chang.

Highlights of the Vagabond meal include Chang's use of "offal and weird cuts" of meats and, "dozen vegetable preparations that are as thoughtful and nuanced as their protein counterparts." Overall he hopes that Chang stays in Miami a bit before, "wandering off to some far-flung, Michelin-starred kitchen."

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater Miami newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world