Who knew vegan cuisine could be so star worthy? Apparently The Miami Herald thinks so giving Matthew Kenney’s Wynwood outpost of Plant Food + Wine the first four-star review of the year this past weekend.
Highlights of reviewer’s Kendall Hamersly’s meal included the nut-based cheeses fermented and flavored with items like truffle and peppercorn; "plump" kimchi dumplings; an "impressive" Ceasar salad made with capers and sunflower and a "startingly good" Cacio e pepe made with raw kelp and pureed cashews.
Over at The Miami New Times, resident critic Zachary Fagenson heads to Giorgio Rapicavoli’s Coconut Grove newcomer, Glass & Vine. Fagenson notes that the mainly outdoors restaurant is worth "worth crowding under an umbrella" in the chance it rains in order to dine on dishes like shrimp toast he describes as a "giddy mess," a pork secreto that "leaves you dizzy" and a carnecruda that "includes near-perfect cubes of beef round."
What didn’t work? Not much, but a few notes here and there pointed to an "overcooked cauliflower" in an otherwise well-received dish and a pasta that "is a bit too similar to the bucatini served at Tom Colicchio's Beachcraft." But Fagenson adds that overall, "Rapicavoli has taken the ingenuity that made Eating House a hit and used it to punch up elegant simplicity." [Miami Herald & Miami New Times]